Setting up a Goldfish Aquarium
Introduction
Equipment needed
Setting up the aquarium
Plants for the goldfish aquarium
The fish
The biological side of aquariums
Feeding goldfish
Routine maintenance
Health
Introduction
Goldfish are one of the most popular species of fish kept in aquariums, and have a deserved reputation for hardiness and ease of keeping. Goldfish, whose scientific name is Carassius auratus, originated in China and have been kept in captivity for at least 2,000 years. During that time, many varieties such as Black Moors, Shubunkins, Orandas and Fantails have been selectively bred. All require the same care and most can coexist in an aquarium together.
Equipment Needed
Aquarium
Goldfish are active fish that like to have plenty of swimming space. For this reason we recommend that they be housed in as large a tank as you can afford and have room for, but certainly no smaller than 30 cm long. Bowls are really only suitable if they have a capacity of at least 10 litres (see our Advice for Bowls information). Remember to place the tank on styrene foam to absorb any unevenness of the surface you intend to place it on.
Filter
Goldfish are rather messy fish so a filter system that will breakdown and remove the waste products that the fish produce is highly desirable.
In smaller tanks (up to 40 litres), a small internal power filter or sponge filter attached to an air pump is sufficient. If using an air pump, it is important to use a Check Valve (or non-return valve), as this will prevent back flow of water into the air pump when the power is turned off.
In larger aquariums, your goldfish will benefit from either an undergravel filter or a power filter. Under gravel filters sit underneath the gravel covering the bottom of the tank, and connect to either an air pump or powerheads. Internal power filters sit completely submerged in the tank and plug directly into the wall, whereas external power filters sit on the outside of the tank. Both types of power filters eliminate the need for air pumps, and are more efficient at filtering the water than an air driven filter. We can advise you on the system most suited to your requirements.
Other needs...
In addition to the tank and filter system, you will need gravel. Finer gravel is better, as uneaten food and debris can become stuck in the pore spaces of coarser grained gravel.
Other items needed are chlorine neutraliser and aquarium salt to condition the water, and possibly a light so that the fish may be properly seen and enjoyed.
Setting up the Aquarium
When you get home, rinse the tank out in fresh water (DO NOT USE DETERGENTS) and select a location for it. This should not be too close to a window, or else green algae may become a problem. It you have a light for the tank a relatively dark part of the room is ideal as you can control the amount of light the tank receives.
Once the location is determined, and the tank is in place with the styrene foam underneath, gravel can be added (if an under gravel filter is being used then install this first and connect the airline hoses to the air pump). Before adding the gravel be sure to wash it well in a bucket to ensure all dirt is removed.
Once the gravel has been added, the tank can be filled with water. To ensure that the gravel is not disturbed, pour the water onto a plate sitting on top of the gravel. When the tank is about three-quarters full, add any rocks, driftwood or ornaments, then finish filling. Add chlorine neutraliser and aquarium salt in the recommended dosage, and you are ready to add the fish and plants.
It is a good idea when filling the tank to measure how many litres of water it holds, as you will need to know this in order to add the right amount of chlorine neutraliser and aquarium salt (as well as any medications you may need to add in the future). To calculate the volume in litres, multiply the length x width x height (in centimetres) together then divide by 1000.
Plants for the Goldfish Aquarium
Goldfish love plants! It is part of their natural diet and there is no way you can stop them trying to make a meal of those beautiful plants you have just added. Having said that, there are some plants that do better with Goldfish than others. These include Vallisneria, red and green ivy, Blue Stricta, Bella Palm, Purple Waffle and PurpleTemple. Elodea is an excellent plant, although it will be eaten quite quickly – it is cheap to buy, looks attractive until the fish demolish it, oxygenates the water, and is doing the fish good by providing some natural food. Avoid the fine-leafed, more delicate looking plants, such as Foxtail or Ambulia, as your fish will dispose of these very quickly.
The Fish
The size and filtration of the tank control the number and size of fish a tank can hold. Assuming that adequate filtration is used, we recommend one 5 cm fish for every 10 litres of aquarium water. If the tank is tall and narrow, this number will need to be reduced, as the surface area that allows for oxygen diffusion is much smaller. Bowls and tanks without filtration also are best with fewer fish. It is more important to have only a few happy healthy fish rather than a large number of unhappy ones.
It is important when starting your tank not to add too many fish too quickly. Generally speaking, you should add fish gradually over a couple of months to get to the number you want; this will allow the filter system, with the necessary bacterial population, to settle down and become effective at removing waste from the water.
Other types of fish do not mix well with Goldfish. Most need a heater in winter, and many will remain much smaller than goldfish whilst others may be too aggressive. However, scavenger type fish can be useful, including some Corydoras catfish and various algae eating catfish. If you particularly want to mix other species, then talk to our staff for a few suggestions.
Once you have chosen your fish and have brought them home, float the bag on the top of the water in the tank for about 20 minutes. This will allow the temperature of the water in the bag to become the same as in the tank, reducing stress for the fish.
The Biological Side of Aquariums...
As mentioned, a bacterial population is crucial in any tank. Fish produce waste products, mainly ammonia, which need to be broken down in the aquarium before it reaches toxic levels. This is done by beneficial bacteria, which live in the gravel and in the filter. These bacteria break down the ammonia into nitrite, which is still toxic, which is then further broken down into nitrate.
In a newly set up aquarium, there are no bacteria present, and it may take up to 3 or 4 weeks to establish a population large enough to cope with the amount of ammonia being produced. For this reason, it is important to not add too many fish at once. It is also important not to overfeed, as uneaten food will rot down and also produce ammonia. The establishment of bacteria can be accelerated by adding a Biological Supplement, such as Seachem Stability or Cycle, which gives the bacteria population a boost.
Once the bacterial population has established, it is important not to kill it. This means not cleaning your tank too thoroughly (washing the gravel will kill the bacteria), and not cleaning sponges from sponge filters under the tap (as the chlorine will also kill the bacteria). If you look after these beneficial bacteria, then the bacteria will look after your fish by eliminating the toxic ammonia waste produced by your fish.
Feeding Goldfish
As mentioned earlier, Goldfish love eating plants. For this reason their diet should contain a high proportion of vegetable protein compared to many tropical fish. Always feed your Goldfish with a flake food formulated for them, and not for tropical fish. Modern flake foods by reputable manufacturers provide a fully balanced diet for your fish. Brand names to look for include Wardleys, HBH and Omega One. Avoid some of the very cheap supermarket brands, some of which seem to not be palatable to the fish and can cause the water in the tank to go cloudy. Several pellet foods are also made for Goldfish by the manufacturers listed and may be fed for variety if your fish like them, as well as Goldfish Frozen Food.
The most important rule about feeding Goldfish is NOT TO OVERFEED. More problems are caused by overfeeding than any other cause. The more food you give them the more waste they produce, and the more polluted the water in the tank can become. Overfeeding can rapidly cause the filter system to overload, with a build up of waste in the water, and the fish ending up essentially swimming in their own sewerage! The rule is that all the food given to the fish should be completely eaten in 3 minutes, and only fed once a day. It is even more important not to overfeed in small tanks, since the small volume of water can very rapidly become polluted.
Routine Maintenance
Tanks need partial water changes at regular intervals to keep the water quality good. Small bowls and small tanks without a filter should have about 10% of the water changed each day. For most tanks with a filter, changing about 30% of the water once a week is recommended, although larger tanks, once established, can be changed about every 2 weeks. During the water change the fish can stay in the tank, and it is a good time to wipe the inside of the glass with a sponge to clean any build-up of algae.
If you are using an under gravel filter then a gravel cleaner should be used to remove dirt from the gravel. Filters with a sponge should be cleaned about every 2 weeks. Never clean the sponge under the tap, as this will destroy beneficial bacteria that break down the fish waste. Rather, rinse the sponge in the bucket of water that you have just removed from the tank. Don’t forget to add chlorine neutraliser and aquarium salt in the recommended dosage for the amount of fresh water being added to the tank.
It is also a good idea to check the pH of the water regularly. The pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water is. Goldfish like neutral or slightly alkaline water (about 7.0 to 7.5). If the pH is wrong this can be rectified by adding either pH UP or pH DOWN to the tank.
Health
Most health problems originate with poor water quality. If the fish are swimming in water that has the wrong pH or high ammonia, then they can become stressed and run down, thus making them vulnerable to attack by the parasites, fungus and bacteria that are always present in water. The key to healthy fish is therefore good water quality. Be careful not to overfeed, do regular partial water changes, and make sure your filter is working effectively. If the fish do become sick, then daily partial changes of a third of the water can help, as well as various medications. Talk to us about those most suited to your fish’s problems, but remember that good water quality is the first line of defence against illness.
You are now ready to enjoy your goldfish. By using the right equipment and products, you can have a beautiful problem free aquarium. Remember, if you have any problems, our staff are only a phone call away.
|
