Setting up a Community Tropical Aquarium
Introduction
Equipment needed
Setting up the aquarium
The water
Decorating the community aquarium
The fish
The biological side of aquariums
Feeding community fish
Routine maintenance
Heath
Introduction
A tropical community aquarium has a variety of different species of tropical fish (those needing a heater in the colder months of the year) which live together harmoniously without fighting with each other. Fish most often included are the Tetras, Barbs, Danios, Rasboras, Livebearers, Gouramis and Catfish. A community tropical tank can be decorated with plants, rocks and wood, and aims to provide a relaxing and pleasant scene to look at.
Equipment needed
Aquarium
When selecting an aquarium, always try to choose one that is as large as possible since this allows more fish to be kept and allows more realistic decoration to be made. Additionally, smaller tanks are harder to keep healthy than large tanks, so, for a variety of reasons we recommend that you buy as large a tank as you can afford and have room for. Remember, by the time you have bought all the accessories for your tank, a slightly larger tank will not have cost you much extra, and will allow you to keep your fish in a less stressed environment. The smallest tank we recommend for a tropical setup is 20”, or about 30 litres. Place your tank on styrene foam to absorb any unevenness of the surface you intend to place the tank on.
Filter
A filter system is highly desirable since it will allow for the removal and breakdown of waste products produced by the fish. Suitable filter systems depend largely on the size of the tank. A small internal power filter or sponge filter attached to an air pump is adequate for small tanks up to 20”. It is important to use a Check Valve (or non-return valve) when using an air pump, as this will prevent back flow of water into the air pump when the power is turned off.
Larger tanks are usually best served either by an undergravel filter or by power filters. Undergravel filters sit underneath the gravel and are connected to either an air pump or powerhead. Internal power filters sit completely submerged in the tank and plug directly into the wall, whereas external power filters sit outside the tank, either hanging on the side of the tank or sitting below. Both types of power filters eliminate the need for an air pump, and are more efficient at filtering the water than air driven filters. We can advise you on the system most suited to your requirements.
Other needs…
In addition to the tank and filter system, you will need gravel for the bottom of the tank. Finer gravel, in the 3 to 5 mm size range, is better than coarser gravel, as uneaten food can become trapped in the pore spaces of coarse gravel.
Other items needed are a heater during winter, a net, chlorine neutraliser, aquarium salt, styrene foam for the tank to sit on, a bucket (which has NEVER been used with detergent) to carry water, and possibly a light so that the fish may be properly seen and enjoyed and the plants can grow.
Setting up the Aquarium
When you get home, rinse the tank out in fresh water (DO NOT USE DETERGENTS) and select a location for it. This should not be too close to a window, or else green algae may become a problem, and it definitely should not get any direct rays of the sun.
Once the location is determined, and the tank is in place with the styrene foam underneath, gravel can be added. If an undergravel filter is being used, then install it first and connect up the airline hoses to the pump. Before adding the gravel, wash it well in a bucket to ensure that all dirt is removed.
Once the gravel is in place, the tank is ready to be filled. Add chlorine neutraliser (sometimes called water conditioner) and aquarium salt in the recommended dosage, and you are ready to add the plants and fish.
It is a good idea when filling the tank to measure how many litres of water the tank holds, as you will need to know this in order to add the right amounts of chlorine neutraliser and aquarium salt (as well as any medications you may need to add in the future). To calculate the volume in litres, multiply the length x width x height (in centimetres) together then divide by 1000.
The Water
The water you use to fill the tank can be straight from the tap, and we are lucky on the Sunshine Coast that our water is ideal for keeping most species of Tropical Fish. It is however vital to use a chlorine treatment to remove the chlorine added to our town water. Chlorine can be dangerous to fish, with even low levels causing damage to the fish’s gills.
Most of the Tropical Fish are happy with the pH of the water being close to neutral (or 7), and we recommend you keep it in the range of 6.8 to 7.2. We have Test Kits available to test the water pH and to adjust it if necessary. Because tap water here is quite soft, there is a tendency for the pH of the water to drop into the dangerously acid range (below 6.5). Neutraliser Blocks, which are placed in the aquarium, help to guard against a falling pH.
Decorating the Community Aquarium
One of the joys of a tropical community aquarium is the wide selection of attractive plants available. Unlike Goldfish, the majority of tropical fish do not eat plants, and in fact many need plenty of plants to feel comfortable in the tank. Just about all the plants you will find on sale may be used in the aquarium, although it should be noted that these fall into two groups.
The first group consists of plants that are truly aquatic and should live for a considerable time in the tank. They include Elodea, Vallisneria, Ambulia, Pennywort, Hygrophila, Ludwidgia and Foxtail. The second group of plants are mainly land plants which have the ability to survive for a period of weeks under water, usually looking very attractive during this period. They include red and green Ivy, Blue Stricta, Purple Temple, Purple Waffle and Aluminium Plant.
Almost all plants do better in well established tanks, where the water has accumulated significant nutrients. In newer tanks, you may find that the addition of Plant Food will help give the plants an extra boost. A light on the top of the tank will also go a long way in keeping your plants looking and staying healthy. If using a light, make sure that it is a proper aquarium light tube specifically for the plants, and not a household light tube.
Pieces of rock and wood can be used to decorate the aquarium. Rocks should be washed thoroughly before use. It is important not to add rocks which may affect the composition of the water, such as limestone, coral pieces and shells. If in doubt about a particular rock, bring it in and we will advise on its suitability. Wood needs to be properly treated before use or else it may discolour the water a yellowish brown. Ask us for full details.
The Fish
The number and size of fish a tank can hold is determined by the size and filtration of the tank. Assuming that adequate filtration is used we recommend one small community fish (such as a Tetra, Guppy or Danio) for every 3 to 5 litres of aquarium water, depending on their size. Thus, a standard 3’ tank with a water volume of 150 litres could have about 30 to 50 fish. For larger and more active fish such as some Barbs or Sharks, this number will decrease. Ask us for advice if you are uncertain. Also, if the tank is tall and narrow, the number of fish able to be kept is dramatically reduced, as the water surface area, and the ability of the water to absorb oxygen, becomes a limiting factor.
There is a large variety of tropical aquarium fish available, and space in this information sheet does not permit us to go into detail. There are several excellent books which can advise you and we are always happy to make suggestions, and to point out any possible compatibility problems. However, do remember that most community fish are happiest with several of their own kind, so plant to get at least 4 of any you select from the Tetras, Barbs, Danios, etc. It is always a good idea to keep some Corydoras catfish in the tank, as these are very good at cleaning up the bottom of the tank, and algae eating catfish such as Bristle Nose help to reduce algae problems.
Also remember that when the tank is newly set up, you should start out during the first two or three weeks with only about a quarter of the final number of fish allowed in the tank. This will enable the filter system, with its necessary bacterial population, to settle down and become effective at removing waste from the water. The additional fish can then be gradually added over the next month or two.
Once you have chosen your fish and have bought them home, float the bag on top of the water in the tank for about 10-20 minutes before opening the bag. This will allow the temperature of the water in the bag to become the same as in the tank, thus reducing stress on the fish.
The Biological Side of Aquariums...
As mentioned, a bacterial population is crucial in any tank. Fish produce waste products, mainly ammonia, which need to be broken down in the aquarium before it reaches toxic levels. This is done by beneficial bacteria, which live in the gravel and in the filter. These bacteria break down the ammonia into nitrite, which is still toxic, which in turn is broken down further into nitrate.
In a newly set up aquarium, there are no bacteria present, and it may take up to 3 or 4 weeks to establish a population large enough to cope with the amount of ammonia being produced. For this reason, it is important to not add too many fish at once. It is also important not to overfeed, as uneaten food will rot down and also produce ammonia. The establishment of bacteria can be accelerated by adding a Biological Supplement, such as Seachem Stability or Cycle, which gives the bacteria population a boost.
Once the bacterial population has established, it is important not to kill it. This means not cleaning your tank too thoroughly (washing the gravel will kill the bacteria), and not cleaning sponges from sponge filters under the tap (as the chlorine will also kill the bacteria). If you look after these beneficial bacteria, then the bacteria will look after your fish by eliminating the toxic ammonia waste produced by your fish.
Feeding Community Fish
Modern flake foods made by reputable manufacturers provide a fully balanced diet for your fish and can form the bulk of their food. Brand names to look for include Wardley’s, HBH and Omega One. Avoid the very cheap supermarket brands, as they are often not palatable to the fish and can cause the water in the tank to go cloudy.
It is also a good idea to provide some variety for your fish with food such as frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp, live food or one of the freeze dried foods such as bloodworms. This means that not only the fish get a bit of variety, but they get used to eating different types of foods. Some types of tropical fish will also need additional types of food on a regular basis.
The most important rule about feeding fish is NOT TO OVERFEED. More problems are caused by overfeeding than any other cause. The more food you give them, the more waste they produce, and the more polluted the water in the tank can become. Overfeeding will rapidly cause the filter system to overload, with a build-up of waste in the water, so the fish end up essentially swimming in their own sewage! The rule is that all the food given should be completely eaten in 2 to 5 minutes, and only feed once a day. It is even more important not to overfeed in small tanks, since the small volume of water can very rapidly become polluted. Ask us to demonstrate the right amount to feed your tank.
Routine Maintenance
Tanks need partial water changes at regular intervals to keep the water quality good. For small tanks with a filter (less than 24”) this should be about 33% every week. For larger tanks, change about 33% every two weeks. Tanks without a filter should have about 10% of the water changed daily.
During the water change the fish can stay in the tank, and it is a good time to wipe the inside of the glass with a sponge to clean any build-up of algae, and to clean out the filter. Sponges from sponge filters should be rinsed in the water you have just emptied from the tank, so as to avoid killing the bacterial population. If you are using an undergravel filter, then a Gravel Cleaner should be used to remove dirt from the gravel. Don’t forget to add chlorine neutraliser and aquarium salt in the recommended dosage for the amount of water being added to the tank.
Finally, it is a good idea to regularly check the pH of the water and adjust if necessary.
Health
Most health problems originate with poor water quality. If the fish are swimming in water that has the wrong pH or high ammonia, then they become stressed and run down, thus making them vulnerable to attack by the parasites, fungus and bacteria which are always present. The key to healthy fish is good water quality. Be careful not to overfeed, do regular partial water changes, and make sure your filter is working effectively. If the fish do become sick, then daily partial water changes can help, as well as various medications. Talk to us about those most suited for your fish’s problems, but remember that a clean tank is the first line of defence against illness.
You are now ready to enjoy your community tropical aquarium. By using the right equipment and products, you can have a beautiful problem free aquarium. Remember, if you have any problems, our staff are only a phone call away.
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